Gutterguardtricities & Is Proud To Join Legacy Remodeling Group & Offer Snaplock & LeafLock Gutter Systems.

0The SnapLock Gutter System® eliminates failures due to water damage typically associated with conventional gutter installations. SnapLock’s innovative “No-hole” technology uses no spikes or nails for attachment to your roof line. There is no need to penetrate the front or back of the gutter in Jonesborough Tn. The result is a watertight mating of the gutter at the edge of your roof – a seal that prevents seepage, rust, rot and mold. Further, because the integrity of your gutter channel is not riddled with holes in Kingsport Tn, the SnapLock Gutter System In Johnson City Tn dramatically outlasts traditional rain gutters while protecting your home against the hazards associated with bacterial mold and fungus.  Plain English it simply outperforms all other gutter systems. 

img_leaflock                                           Traditional rain gutters have changed little during the past 100 years in the Tri Cities. Today, their designs employ spikes, screws, or nails for attachment to your home, just as they did at the turn of the century when Teddy Roosevelt was President. The average house in Bristol Va with gutters has 70+ holes punctured in the back wall of the gutter. Holes cause leaks! And while this outmoded gutter technology offers satisfactory benefits in the short-term, results over many seasons remain the same in Chuckey Tn: Structural failure because of rot, mold and gutter separation.


Because & Leaflock gives you options, you are able to choose one that fits your budget in Johnson City Tn. It’s not all or nothing. If your gutters are in good condition, LeafLock clog free gutter covers don’t force you to buy new gutters or throw your good gutters away in Kingsport tn, which can save you thousands of dollars. Remember, we add our patented extruded gutter hanger on EVERY job, which makes your gutters stronger than ever before in Bristol Va. Put a LeafLock Gutter System on your Johnson city & Tri Cities area home today.Stop Getting Nailed & Screwed By The Competition & Reach Out To Our Family Of Trained Gutter Specialists.

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Insulating your home before the winter will save you money and keep your toes warm!

For southerners, the idea of Winter brings thoughts of relief from the overbearing heat of Summer and lower utility costs from reduced AC usage. But, if your home is not well insulated, it could also mean HIGHER costs from a constantly running heating unit. This is where insulating comes in to play. Here are some home insulating projects that can keep your home warm in the winter and your heating costs down.

  • Insulate your attic. Adding insulation to your attic can be one of the biggest money saving projects, not only during the winter but for the summer months too. There are several types of insulation that you can use: fiberglass (in batt or blown forms), cellulose, rigid foam board and spray foam. For most of the country, the US DOE recommends at least a rating of a R30 for attic insulation and at least a R13 in the walls (R-value = is a term used to measure an insulation’s resistance to heat flow). Older homes are likely to have less insulation, which causes them to use more energy leading to higher heating and air conditioning bills. Click here for more information on finding the most cost-effective insulation level for your home. Note: For your insulation to work its best, be sure to seal leaks in your attic before installing your insulation.
  • Insulate your electric or natural gas water heater. While your water heater tank already has some insulation, you can save additional energy and money if you insulate it more. You can do this by applying a water heater blanket or jacket to the water heater tank. Look for ones that have an insulating value of at least an R-8. For safety, just be sure not to cover the top, bottom, thermostat, or burner compartment of the water heater.
  • Insulate pipes. Insulate the first six feet of your hot and cold water pipes and it will save energy and water. Think about the amount of water wasted when running tap water till it turns warm. Now if the pipes are wrapped and insulated, the water will stay warmer longer. So you won’t need to wait as long for the water to warm thus using less water and less energy.

At Legacy Remodeling, we offer a free energy evaluation, using a state of the art thermal imaging device, which will show you where you are losing energy and a free quote on the insulation you need to get your home energy efficient and comfortable for the cold winter months.


Conditioning your home’s crawl space will eradicate and prevent mold & humidity, and also reduce energy loss

The crawl space of your home can be a growth haven for mold, a moisture sieve, and can lead to uncontrollable energy loss. Homes with concrete floors are less impervious to these negative conditions, but homes with gravel or dirt floors are extremely susceptible. These raw conditions often render the added space unusable when it comes to storage and can create a welcomed environment for nuisances such as pests and also for water seepage. Seepage and high humidity in a crawl space are fairly common occurrences that unfortunately have the effect of creating a musty smell in the home.

Luckily, there are inexpensive and effective ways to rid your primitive crawl space of these issues. Initially, you must identify what the problems are by examining the ground for dampness. If water seepage appears to be an issue, the crawl space needs to be sealed to prevent further damage and ensure the comfortability of the home and the integrity of the crawl space.

The most effective method of eliminating the aforementioned problems is to condition the crawl space. This is the act of sealing and enclosing the crawl space. There is often misunderstanding of the codes associated with conditioning a crawl space, as most perceive the codes state one cannot enclose a crawl space without venting. Codes in Tennessee and surrounding states allow for full crawl space enclosure, as it applies to the conditioning process. The following report is a study taken from the results of crawl space conditioning, 12 months after the work was done. Legacy Remodeling Group will provide a no cost, no obligation home energy evaluation and  a quote on conditioning your home’s crawl space.



Solar hot water heaters save you money and decrease your reliance on the grid

Using sunshine to heat or preheat your water can cut your annual hot water costs in half. And the best aspect of generating hot water for your home is that it’s free! Solar hot water heaters have been more commonplace as homeowners have started to look for alternatives to using the utility grid for all facets of domestic energy generation. More companies in the US are adding solar hot water heaters to their product lines as consumer demand mounts.

According to there are several types of hot water heater systems:


There are two types of active solar water heating systems:

  • Direct circulation systems
    Pumps circulate household water through the collectors and into the home. They work well in climates where it rarely freezes.
  • Indirect circulation systems
    Pumps circulate a non-freezing, heat-transfer fluid through the collectors and a heat exchanger. This heats the water that then flows into the home. They are popular in climates prone to freezing temperatures.

Illustration of an active, closed loop solar water heater. A large, flat panel called a flat plate collector is connected to a tank called a solar storage/backup water heater by two pipes. One of these pipes is runs through a cylindrical pump into the bottom of the tank, where it becomes a coil called a double-wall heat exchanger. This coil runs up through the tank and out again to the flat plate collector. Antifreeze fluid runs only through this collector loop. Two pipes run out the top of the water heater tank; one is a cold water supply into the tank, and the other sends hot water to the house.


Passive solar water heating systems are typically less expensive than active systems, but they’re usually not as efficient. However, passive systems can be more reliable and may last longer. There are two basic types of passive systems:

  • Integral collector-storage passive systems
    These work best in areas where temperatures rarely fall below freezing. They also work well in households with significant daytime and evening hot-water needs.
  • Thermosyphon systems
    Water flows through the system when warm water rises as cooler water sinks. The collector must be installed below the storage tank so that warm water will rise into the tank. These systems are reliable, but contractors must pay careful attention to the roof design because of the heavy storage tank. They are usually more expensive than integral collector-storage passive systems.

Illustration of a passive, batch solar water heater. Cold water enters a pipe and can either enter a solar storage/backup water heater tank or the batch collector, depending on which bypass valve is opened. If the valve to the batch collector is open, a vertical pipe (which also has a spigot drain valve for cold climates) carries the water up into the batch collector. The batch collector is a large box holding a tank and covered with a glaze that faces the sun. Water is heated in this tank, and another pipe takes the heated water from the batch collector into the solar storage/backup water heater, where it is then carried to the house.

For the milder climate of East Tennessee, Western North Carolina and Southern Virginia, solar hot water heaters just make sense. Not only will your home be less reliant on the grid, you’ll be doing your part to decrease domestic energy consumption, as well you’ll be saving money, which to many is the most practically attractive aspect of the installation.

Legacy Remodeling Group is proud to now offer the savings and energy-saving technology that is the solar hot water heater. Please feel free to contact us at (866)483-4498 for a no-cost, no-obligation home energy evaluation and demonstration of this product.

Gutter Guards Can Save Your Home.

You know that old couple down the street from you — they’re really too old to climb up on a ladder to do home maintenance activities. It never fails, though — they take turns every season cleaning their gutters of leaves, twigs and other seasonal debris. You’ve vowed that the next time you see them haul out the ladder, you’re going to volunteer to clean their downspouts for them. But you’re also curious if it would benefit them to install a gutter guard. You’ve always wondered if they actually worked.

The thing is, there really isn’t a simple answer. That’s good and bad news.

Experts tend to agree that gutter guards don’t provide foolproof protection against all the debris that can litter and clog gutters. You shouldn’t purchase gutter guards with the intention of never cleaning your downspouts again. They don’t make your gutters invincible or magically resistant to the debris­ of the seasons. But, the Rhino Guard gutter water management system is a guaranteed product and any issues that arise will be looked at and resolved by one of our gutter experts.

That being said, gutter guards have been known to reduce the frequency of gutter cleanings. Installing a gutter guard properly should lessen the number of times you’ll have to clean your gutters.

It’s a good idea to take a look at your gutters, especially in the autumn when leaves are falling. You’ll also want to make sure in the wi­nter that snow and ice don’t clog your gutters. Spring and summer can pose their own problems, depending on the foliage surrounding your house.

When choosing a gutter protection system, keep in mind that under-shingle gutter guards can lead to roof degradation and can act as a high-pitch “water slide” that funnels rainwater directly and forcefully towards the foundation, creating trenches that can lead to foundation problems. For homeowners who don’t see the value of a gutter protection system due to a scarcity of trees on their properties: squirrels find gutters very desirable for hoarding nuts and gutters present an ample venue for birds to nest. You can imagine the long term effects of these natural behaviors on your gutter system. And of course, mosquitoes will infest any standing water, and gutters are prone to rainwater pooling which presents a health risk for both people and pets. 

A well performing water management system with gutter guards will protect your home, keep you safe from falling off a ladder, and prevent any wildlife from taking up unwanted residence in your gutters. 


Get educated on different types of gutter guards!




The principle of the reverse curve technology is that surface tension will guide water into the gutter by following the curve and allow the debris to continue past the water opening, avoiding the gutter entrapment. This does not always happen as increased velocities in heavy rainfalls causes the water to bypass the opening and over run very easily.

When the rainfalls are minimal, the product principle will work, but any small debris (pine needles, shingle grit, seed pods, etc.) will wash around with the water and enter the gutter anyway. Large leaves and twigs usually will not be captured, so there is minimal protection achieved. Additionally, the aperture (opening) can and will get clogged and will require periodic cleanings annually. The size of the aperture required to execute this technology yields access to wasps, birds, rodents and other creatures to infiltrate the system and create further clogging scenarios. Most of these systems are made of aluminum sheet of varying gauges, but all are lightweight, unreinforced and prone to damage. All reverse curve products require roof/shingle interaction and the obtrusive nature of this type of product makes them an eyesore to the home’s aesthetic value.


The principle of the perforated/louvered technology is that water will pass through the openings, but the debris will not. In order to make this technology perform effectively, the openings need to be of a fairly large size to pass the water quickly, but doing so will allow debris equal to or less than the aperture size to pass through to the gutter. This is predominantly overcome by reducing the holes/louvers to sizes of a smaller nature, but reducing open area causes overflow because the water will not dissipate faster than it is introduced from the roof supply. Increasing the amount of “small” openings would help dissipate water more rapidly, but doing so is not conducive to the manufacturing techniques available, so it cannot be accomplished. Most manufacturers of this technology overcome this condition by making the guard into a “tray” style (below top of gutter plane), which captures the water in a specific depth and utilizes “head of water” pressure to force the water through the inadequate quantity of small size openings. This type of design creates a literal trough that ultimately collects debris and traps it, analogous to an open gutter itself; defeating entirely the purpose of putting gutter protection on in the first place.

Without debris in the mix, these types of products WILL overflow in moderate to heavy rainfalls as the open area percentages are negligible and the dissipation capabilities cannot keep up with the water supply from the roof. With the introduction of debris in the “trough” blocking the openings, these products will then fail in even small rainfalls and they will require continual and ongoing cleanings.

Large opening products are obviously ineffective due to the large amounts of debris that enter the gutter system. These type systems will require constant removal of the guard to access the gutters for cleaning, so there is no real reason to install them.


The principle of the micro-mesh technology is that the “screening” offers large open area counts with microscopic openings, maximizing the water dissipation capabilities. While this is a correct design assumption, the bulk of these products fail to include the necessary designs to make them effective in doing so. Obviously, the micro-mesh eliminates the chance of anything but water getting into the gutter, so gutters will not clog if no debris is present.

In an effort to augment the debris shedding, all of the micro-mesh products employ a “slope” to execute. This is usually accomplished by installing the product under the shingle so the slope of the roof is parallel to the product face or at a slight acute angle to it. This method usually fails for a few reasons. These products do not take into consideration the water velocities coming off of the roof and without deceleration of those velocities, the water will not have time to “redirect” into a vertical plane so it can pass through the screen effectively, thus yielding over flow. The second reason for failure is the mesh sizing. While the open areas may be greater than that of the perforated styles, the aperture sizing is critical to eliminate the potential for microscopic organic and inorganic debris to bridge the gaps and clog. The bulk of the micro-mesh manufacturers use mesh sizing that does not take into consideration the micron sizing of pollens, dust, and other pollutants and thereby renders their filtering abilities ineffective over the long haul. Coupling no water deceleration with incorrect sized mesh is a recipe for failure and this will ultimately lead to overflow of all water. While no large debris cleaning is necessary because of the slope, improperly sized mesh will require continual and ongoing cleanings.

Additionally, some micro-mesh products employ the use of plastic as their core structure which will ultimately meet its rapid demise through extended UV exposure; regardless of any “additives” they claim to add to the formulation.


The pictures above show a sampling of the “gimmick” products available on the market today and the images speak for themselves as to how ineffective and literally ridiculous these products actually are.

Sponge or foam type products are prone to rapid deterioration due to UV exposure and the “open cell” design lends itself quite well to a home for debris to hide and for mildew/mold to grow. Additionally, they compress easily under any kind of load and create a “trough” for debris to collect on top once the compression has taken place.

Brush products allow water to pass through easily, but it also allows debris smaller than a big leaf to collect quite well inside the bristles and openings between the bristles. These brushes are also susceptible to deterioration as they are manufactured with plastic bristles. Simplistic installation does NOT mean effective protection.

Plastic tube products are going to deteriorate. Their entire design premise creates LARGE cavities at the radiuses for shingle grit and ALL debris to collect and compact which will render it completely ineffective in short order.
Plastic screening has no support whatsoever and will collapse under the slightest of loads and the openings are so large that debris will still enter the gutter system, requiring periodic cleanings. There is also no protection from UV devastation.

Tunnel products have the distinction of allowing debris to fall through the first level down to the second level, so you won’t be able to see the second level clogging inside the gutter. Once clogged, the top layer needs to be removed so you can access the bottom level to clean it out. This concept makes little sense.
Vertical bar products take their design from sewer grates. Most debris goes through sewer grates, so not much more needs to be said here.


Rhino Gutter Guard brands are the finest quality products available today. Years and years of research and real world experience have gone into the creation of these products and each style has unique features and benefits that just make sense.

We manufacture all of our products in the USA and we remain “better than competitive” in comparison to the overseas suppliers through innovation, automation (labor reduction), lean initiatives, and state of the art high speed machinery, which we design and build “in house”.

RHINO products employ high tech quality control procedures that allow us to boast of an unprecedented defect ratio, unmatched in any industry. The micro-mesh products we offer are defined by our patent pending process of “hemming” our mesh around the substrate BEFORE roll forming the shape. This process allows us to be the ONLY manufacturer that can claim that their mesh is in constant contact with the substrate due to the lateral tension achieved, further augmenting water dissipation qualities.

Change Your Energy Habits!

Remember how you felt in elementary school when you first learned about civil rights, global warming or some other great cause and you launched a full-blown campaign on all fronts of your life – at home, on the playground and on the phone with your grandparents?

You knew then that you could make a difference. You were just a little kid, but you were going to change the world.

Somehow, as we get older and bigger, the world is the only thing that seems to grow larger instead of smaller and its vastness makes us forget that we have the power to change it.

It starts with one

But when you change your habits and you talk to people about what you’re doing and why, the idea spreads. It’s already happening. Energy efficiency and green are popular topics these days. The world is already changing – one house at a time.

Cutting back on the energy consumption in your home can make you a part of that change.

How changing your energy habits can help conservation:

The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency reports that a reduction in energy consumption at home decreases greenhouse gas emissions. Because of energy conservation initiatives, in 2008 greenhouse gas emissions in the U.S. dropped by about the equivalent of the emissions from 29 million cars, according to the EPA.

Where to start

Not many folks know how much energy they use in a month. There are a lot of resources out there to help identify energy usage. Here are just a few:

  1. Utility Companies. See if your utility company will provide you with your energy profile. Some companies may even take part in the Green Button program, which was started by the U.S. Department of Energy to allow easy online access to information about consumers’ energy usage. 
  2. U.S. Department of Energy’s energy estimation formula. If you take the total amount of watts an appliance uses, multiply that number by the number of hours you use the appliance, and divide the result by 1,000, you will have an estimate for how much energy you are using per appliance. So if you have a TV that consumes 300 watts of energy, and you watch four hours of television a day, your formula for the daily energy consumption of your TV would be:

    (300 × 4) ÷ 1,000 = 1.2 Daily Kilowatt-hours of electricity consumption

    You can use this calculation for all of your major appliances to estimate how much energy you are using overall.

  3. Get a home energy assessment.  Seek help. A professional home energy evaluation is a great way for families to find out how much energy they are using and how they’re using it. Call Legacy Remodeling Group at (866)483-4498 for a free in home consultation. Also visit our website:

What you can do

Saving the world will not require you to completely change your lifestyle, but you will have to do a little work and possibly make some sacrifices.

  • See where you can cut back. Can you run the dishwasher or do laundry fewer times per week? Can you turn down the temperature of your refrigerator and still keep food cool? Make sure you turn off your TV and computer when you aren’t using them.
  • Use your heating and air conditioning responsibly. Try using more blankets or warmer clothing instead of cranking up the heat during this unusually cold winter.

Get Educated on Different Types of Insulation

When insulating your home, you can choose from many types of insulation. To choose the best type of insulation, you should first determine the following:

  • Where you want or need to install/add insulation
  • The recommended R-values for areas you want to insulate.


The maximum thermal performance or R-value of insulation is very dependent on proper installation. Homeowners can install some types of insulation — notably blankets and materials that can be poured in place. Other types require professional installation.

When hiring a professional certified installer:

  • Obtain written cost estimates from several contractors for the R-value you need, and don’t be surprised if quoted prices for a given R-value installation vary by more than a factor of two.
  • Ask contractors about their air-sealing services and costs as well, because it’s a good idea to seal air leaks before installing insulation.

To evaluate blanket installation, you can measure batt thickness and check for gaps between batts as well as between batts and framing. In addition, inspect insulation for a tight fit around building components that penetrate the insulation, such as electrical boxes. To evaluate sprayed or blown-in types of insulation, measure the depth of the insulation and check for gaps in coverage.


Loose-fill insulation consists of small particles of fiber, foam, or other materials. These small particles form an insulation material that can conform to any space without disturbing structures or finishes. This ability to conform makes loose-fill insulation well suited for retrofits and locations where it would be difficult to install other types of insulation.

The most common types of materials used for loose-fill insulation include cellulose, fiberglass, and mineral (rock or slag) wool. All of these materials are produced using recycled waste materials. Cellulose is primarily made from recycled newsprint. Most fiberglass contains 20% to 30% recycled glass. Mineral wool is usually produced from 75% post-industrial recycled content. The table below compares these three materials.


Unlike most common insulation systems, which resist conductive and sometimes convective heat flow, radiant barriers and reflective insulation work by reflecting radiant heat away from the living space. Radiant barriers are installed in homes — usually in attics — primarily to reduce summer heat gain, which helps lower cooling costs. Reflective insulation incorporates radiant barriers — typically highly reflective aluminum foils — into insulation systems that can include a variety of backings, such as kraft paper, plastic film, polyethylene bubbles, or cardboard, as well as thermal insulation materials.

Radiant heat travels in a straight line away from any surface and heats anything solid that absorbs its energy. When the sun heats a roof, it’s primarily the sun’s radiant energy that makes the roof hot. A large portion of this heat travels by conduction through the roofing materials to the attic side of the roof. The hot roof material then radiates its gained heat energy onto the cooler attic surfaces, including the air ducts and the attic floor. A radiant barrier reduces the radiant heat transfer from the underside of the roof to the other surfaces in the attic. To be effective, it must face an air space.

Radiant barriers are more effective in hot climates, especially when cooling air ducts are located in the attic. Some studies show that radiant barriers can lower cooling costs 5% to 10% when used in a warm, sunny climate. The reduced heat gain may even allow for a smaller air conditioning system. In cool climates, however, it’s usually more cost-effective to install more thermal insulation.


Liquid foam insulation materials can be sprayed, foamed-in-place, injected, or poured. Some installations can have twice the R-value per inch of traditional batt insulation, and can fill even the smallest cavities, creating an effective air barrier.


Today, most foam materials use foaming agents that don’t use chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs) or hydrochlorofluorocarbons (HCFCs), which are harmful to the earth’s ozone layer.

Available liquid foam insulation materials include:

  • Cementitious
  • Phenolic
  • Polyisocyanurate (polyiso)
  • Polyurethane.

Some less common types include Icynene foam and Tripolymer foam. Icynene foam can be either sprayed or injected, which makes it the most versatile. It also has good resistance to both air and water intrusion. Tripolymer foam—a water-soluble foam—is injected into wall cavities. It has excellent resistance to fire and air intrusion.


Liquid foam insulation — combined with a foaming agent — can be applied using small spray containers or in larger quantities as a pressure-sprayed (foamed-in-place) product. Both types expand and harden as the mixture cures. They also conform to the shape of the cavity, filling and sealing it thoroughly.

Slow-curing liquid foams are also available. These foams are designed to flow over obstructions before expanding and curing, and they are often used for empty wall cavities in existing buildings. There are also liquid foam materials that can be poured from a container.

Installation of most types of liquid foam insulation requires special equipment and certification and should be done by experienced installers. Following installation, an approved thermal barrier equal in fire resistance to half-inch gypsum board must cover all foam materials. Also, some building codes don’t recognize sprayed foam insulation as a vapor barrier, so installation might require an additional vapor retarder.


Liquid foam insulation products and installation usually cost more than traditional batt insulation. However, liquid foam insulation has higher R-values and forms an air barrier, which can eliminate some of the other costs and tasks associated with weatherizing a home, such as caulking, applying housewrap and vapor barrier, and taping joints. When building a new home, this type of insulation can also help reduce construction time and the number of specialized contractors, which saves money.


Blanket insulation — the most common and widely available type of insulation — comes in the form of batts or rolls. It consists of flexible fibers, most commonly fiberglass. You also can find batts and rolls made from mineral (rock and slag) wool, plastic fibers, and natural fibers, such as cotton and sheep’s wool. Learn more about these insulation materials.

Batts and rolls are available in widths suited to standard spacing of wall studs, attic trusses or rafters, and floor joists. Continuous rolls can be hand-cut and trimmed to fit. They are available with or without facings. Manufacturers often attach a facing (such as kraft paper, foil-kraft paper, or vinyl) to act as a vapor barrier and/or air barrier. Batts with a special flame-resistant facing are available in various widths for basement walls and other places where the insulation will be left exposed. A facing also helps facilitate fastening during installation. However, unfaced batts are a better choice when adding insulation over existing insulation.

Standard fiberglass blankets and batts have a thermal resistance or R-value between R-2.9 and R-3.8 per inch of thickness. High-performance (medium-density and high-density) fiberglass blankets and batts have R-values between R-3.7 and R-4.3 per inch of thickness. See the table below for an overview of these characteristics.

Johnson City Home Show – Freedom Hall Civic Center – Saturday, February 15th and Sunday, February 16th.

We will be at our first Johnson City Home Show next weekend, February 15th and 16th at the Freedom Hall Civic Center in Johnson City, TN! We’re excited to get to meet potential customers and discuss face-to-face what we do at Legacy! We’ll have tons of information about the Thermal Shield Insulation System, as well as demonstrations of our other products, including Rhino Gutter Guards and Excalibur Windows.

If you have any questions about insulating your home or questions about protecting your home and foundation from damage caused by faulty water management systems, this is the perfect forum to speak with us directly. Our booth will be located across from the Kid’s Play Zone, so bring the whole family. It will be a great time to get informed and the kids will be entertained, as well. In advance of the home show, please contact us with any questions at (866)483-4498 or visit our website: